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camden-grey | cedarvale | mms | soapcrafters | tkb trading |
aqua (water) glycerin pentasodium pentetate propylene glycol sodium laureth sulfate sodium myristate sodium stearate (stearic acid) sorbitol tea-myristate tea-stearate tetrasodium etidronate or edta triethanolamine titanium dioxide (in white base) |
dm hydantoin edta glycerin olive oil propylene glycol sodium laureth sulfate sodium oleate sorbitol preservative water titanium dioxide (in white base) |
coconut oil glycerin propylene glycol sodium cocoate sodium laurate sodium myristate sodium stearate sucrose triethanolamine water titanium dioxide (in white base) |
glycerin lauric acid propylene glycol sodium laureth sulfate sodium stearate sorbitol stearic acid pentasodium pentetate tetrasodium etidronate water titanium dioxide (in white base) |
aloe vera castor seed oil coconut oil glycerin palm oil propylene glycol purified water safflower seed oil sorbitol titanium dioxide (in white base) |
different ingredients make for different results. for instance, if
(like me) you're using tkb's base which contains no stearic acid, and
you want to add stearic acid, you can't add it to a clear base without
incurring cloudiness. however, you can get a clear base (say, from
soapcrafters) with stearic acid incorporated in the "clear" formula.
another example is by buying a base that contains a specific ingredient
(i.e. aloe vera, goat's milk, honey, olive oil, etc.), you avoid the
expense and bother of having to add it.
i prefer tkb's base because it contains no detergents, no sulfates, no
surfactants, no alcohol, and no sugar solutions. tkb's clear and opaque
bases are used in all of the following recipes. however sodium laureth
sulfate, which is absent from tkb's bases, is beneficial as an
emulsifying agent in a soap containing added, say, emu oil or shea
butter. in these instances, i add sodium lauryl sulfoacetate (sls),
which is milder, albeit costly.
notes on coloring:
there are many ways to add color to soap (and other skin care products).
this can include natural colorants (e.g. beet powder), FD&C dyes,
and micas ...just to name a few. these colorants come in a variety of
forms (e.g. liquid, gel, powder, wax chips, etc.).
the colors [of the soap examples below] were achieved by blending (in
various combinations) the three primary colors (in transparent and
opaque oxide) along with black and white opaque oxide. the colorant used
(by drops) is a concentrated gel (manufactured by tkb trading), which
is triple the concentration of the regular colors.
(colors react differently to clear and opaque bases ...you can't
achieve a deep dark color with a white opaque base. but you can create
an opaque dark color by adding dark opaque oxide coloring to a clear
base ...you can darken most colors by adding black oxide.)
notes on additives:
use no more than 1 tablespoon of fragrance and 1 tablespoon of additives
per pound of base. this is a guiding rule, however, soap base can
accept up to 1 cup (combined) per pound of base. note, the more stuff
you add, the more "gunk" ends up in the water. (this is where an
emulsifyer is beneficial.) for more information on the additives used in
the following recipes, see "additives".
fragrance:
obviously the amount of fragrance used in a recipe would depend on
personal taste -- when a recipe calls for a fragrance blend, go to "fragrance formulas" to see the formula for that blend.
molds:
the molds used in all of the following designs were supplied by "spinning leaf",
(formerly 3dmolds.com). you'll notice the quantity of soap base called
for in the following recipes is 5.33 oz. (1/3 lb.). i use this quantity
because these molds create a slightly larger bar. if, (as many other
recipes and molds dictate), you use 4 oz. (1/4 lb.) of soap base, the
following recipes can still be used [in most cases] with no further
modification to the ingredients list.
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• citrus grove | medium
hard bar with copious luxurious lather and fresh citrus scent. bar is
pale transparent yellow with embedded bits of yellow and orange to
visually reflect the different citrus elements of the scent. |
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| | design: plain oval shaped transparent bar with embedded soap pieces in three colors.
color1: bar - clear base with slight transparent yellow color.
color2: pieces - clear base colored in three different opaque shades from pale yellow to dark orange.
fragrance: bar - citrus grove fragrance.
fragrance: pieces - lightest shade: lemon essential oil; middle
shade: orange (sweet) essential oil; darkest shade: tangering essential
oil |
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| 1.5 oz. | m&p soap base (clear) |
| 3 shades | opaque color (from pale yellow to deep orange) |
| 15 drops | (5 ea.) lemon, sweet orange, tangerine essential oils |
| 9 drops | super silk |
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| 5.33 | m&p soap base (clear) |
| 1 drop | (pale) yellow transparent color |
| 64 drops | "citrus grove" fragrance blend |
| .25 tsp. | turkey red oil |
| .25 tsp. | supersilk |
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| prepare soapbits by melting (individually
for each color/scent) 1/2 oz. soap base; add color, fragrance, silk;
pour into a puddle on flat plate lined with plastic wrap; place in
freezer for 1/2 hour; remove from freezer and cut into bits; set aside.
melt remaining soap base; add color; remove from heat; add fragrance,
turkey red oil, silk; when soap starts to thicken mix in bits and
disperse evenly; mold.
color (bar): 2 drops yellow transparent.
color (light pieces): 2 drops yellow oxide, 13 drops white oxide ...or use opaque base.
color (middle pieces): 1 drop red oxide, 3 drops yellow oxide, 1 drop white oxide.
color (dark pieces): 1 drop red oxide, 1 drop yellow oxide.
embedding: when adding the chilled bits or shavings to cooled
soap that has started to thicken, this further cools and thickens the
soap so that the end of the pour [into the mold] is usually too thick to
flow evenly. for this reason, retain a small amount of base soap,
cooled but still fluid, to top off the pour so that the bottom of the
bar will be even and flat. |
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• conifer | rich-lathering, exfoliating bar, with a masculine, woodsy conifer fragrance. |
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| | design: opaque, plain, rectangular shaped, bar with visually textured pattern.
color: drab pale green base interspersed with dark speckles created by the ground basil.
fragrance: "conifer" fragrance. |
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| 5.33 oz. | m&p soap base (opaque) |
| 1 tsp. | kaolin clay |
| 1 tsp. | goat's milk |
| 1 tsp. | ground basil |
| | drab pale green color (note 1) |
| 96 drops | "conifer" fragrance blend |
| .25 tsp. | turkey red oil |
| .25 tsp. | supersilk |
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| grind basil in a coffee grinder until it is
powdery, mix with milk and clay, set aside; melt soap base; remove from
heat; add fragrance, turkey red oil, silk; add basil/clay/milk mix (note 2); mold (note 3).
notes:
1 - color (3 drops red transparent, 2 drops yellow transparent, 1 drop blue transparent, 2 drops black oxide).
2 - add a little soap to the basil/clay/milk mixture, make a slurry, add paste to soap.
3 - before molding, be sure to stir continually until mixture cools and
thickens to the point where the basil and clay remain suspended. |
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• creamy emuloe | a
great lathering, creamy, harder, long lasting bar with the skin
conditioning benefits of goat's milk and emu oil, and the healing
properties of aloe vera. |
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| | design: white oval bar with conch shell surface design.
color: none - white from soap base.
fragrance: "vanilla musk" fragrance. |
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| 1 tsp. | goat's milk |
| 1 tsp. | kaolin white clay |
| 5.33 oz. | m&p soap base (opaque) |
| .5 tsp. | aloe vera |
| .5 tsp. | emu oil (note 1) |
| .25 tsp. | stearic acid |
| .25 tsp. | sodium lauryl sulfoacetate (sls) |
| 75 drops | "vanilla musk" fragrance blend |
| .25 tsp. | turkey red oil |
| .25 tsp. | supersilk |
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| mix goat's milk and clay with sls, set
aside; melt soap base; remove from heat; add aloe vera, emu oil, and
stearic acid; add a little soap to milk/clay/sls mixture, make a paste,
add paste to soap mixture; add fragrance, turkey red oil, silk; mold (note 2).
the design and fragrance of this particular bar are incidental. any or no design/fragrance can be used.
notes:
1 - when adding emu oil (or shea butter), it's a good idea [before
pouring] to continually stir the soap mixture until it starts to thicken
(as with suspended ingredients) to keep the oils from rising to the
top.
2 - before molding, be sure to stir continually until mixture cools and thickens to the point where the clay remains suspended. |
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• creamy rosemary | a wonderfully creamy soap with the scent of rosemary. |
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| | design: white oval bar with surface conch shell design in contrasting color.
color: creamy white bar color (no color added) with olive drab (note 1) surface design.
fragrance: rosemary essential oil |
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| 5.33 oz. | m&p soap base (opaque) |
| .25 cup | goat's milk (mixed with 1 tbs. water) |
| 1 tsp. | honey |
| 50 drops | rosemary essential oil (note 2) |
| .25 tsp. | turkey red oil |
| .25 tsp. | supersilk |
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| melt soap base; add milk, honey; add color; remove from heat; add fragrance, turkey red oil, silk; mold (note 3).
notes:
1 - color (1 drop red oxide, 1 drop yellow oxide, 1 drop blue oxide).
2 - rosemary eo is not recommended with high blood pressure, epilepsy or if pregnant.
3 - add olive drap color to approx. 1 oz. melted opaque soap; pour just
enough into mold to cover surface design; let harden slightly; spritz
with sd alcohol; fill mold with prepared [uncolored] soap mixture. |
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• herbal rose | aromatic bar, hardened with beeswax, with the scent of a rose gargen. |
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| | design: rectangular shaped, semi-transluscent bar with a victorian surface design.
color: red hue used to complement the rose scent, but toned so as not to be exclusively feminine.
fragrance: "herbal rose" fragrance, a rose fragrance blend,
crafted to minimize the sweet floral aspect so as not to be exclusively
feminine. |
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| 5.33 oz. | m&p soap base (clear) |
| 1 tbs. | beeswax |
| 1 tsp. | honey |
| | dark red semi-transluscent color (note 1) |
| 88 drops | "herbal rose" fragrance blend |
| .25 tsp. | turkey red oil |
| .25 tsp. | supersilk |
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| melt soap base; add honey, beeswax, color; remove from heat; add fragrance, turkey red oil, silk; mold.
this is a basic m&p recipe for a harder bar and any desired fragrance and color can be substituted.
notes:
1 - color (3 drops red transparent, 1 drop black oxide). |
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• herbal swirl | refreshing,
medium-hard bar with a silky rich lather and a sweet herbal scent. the
bar's green and white swirl design is a visual representation of the
herbal scent and the goat's milk content. |
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| | design: plain rectangular pale-colored opaque bar with contrasting dark-colored swirls.
color: pale opaque green with dark opaque green swirls.
fragrance: "sweet herbal" fragrance. |
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| 1.33 oz. | m&p soap base (clear) |
| | opaque green color (note 1) |
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| 4 oz. | m&p soap base (opaque) |
| 1 tsp. | goat's milk (mixed with 2 tsp. water) |
| 1 tsp. | honey |
| 75 drops | "sweet herbal" fragrance blend |
| .25 tsp. | turkey red oil |
| .25 tsp. | supersilk |
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| melt opaque soap base; add color; transfer to another container; keep warm/melted.
in same pot melt opaque soap base. it will pick up a tinge of color from
the previous batch; if this is not desirable, clean pot before this
step. add goat's milk, honey.
remove both batches from heat and let them start to cool, stirring
frequently to prevent skin. add fragrance, turkey red oil, and silk to
the light-colored batch as it cools.
with pipette, drizzle the dark colored mixtured over the light cololored
soap -- creating the swirl, and with minimum aggitation, pour into
mold.
notes:
1 - color (2 drops yellow oxide; 1 drop ultramarine blue transparent; 1 drop black oxide). |
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• honey-orange calendula | emollient, rich-lathering, harder bar with aloe vera, calendula petals, and a spicy orange-honey fragrance. |
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| | variation 1 design: plain rectangular semi- transparent bar with suspended calendula petals.
color: pale orange with suspended calendula petals.
fragrance: autumn fragrance. |
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| | variation 2
design: oval bar, same as above with substitution of shea oil
[for emu oil], and omission of stearic acid, and sls (to improve
transparency). color: no added color; coloring is derived from ingredients: honey, essential oils, turkey red oil, supersilk, and calendula petals. |
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| 5.33 oz. | m&p soap base (clear) |
| 1 tsp. | honey |
| .5 tsp. | emu oil (note 1) |
| .25 tsp. | stearic acid |
| 1 tsp. | aloe vera |
| .25 tsp. | sodium lauryl sulfoacetate (sls) |
| | pale orange color (note 2) |
| 96 drops | "autumn" (variation 2) fragrance blend |
| .25 tsp. | turkey red oil |
| .25 tsp. | supersilk |
| 1 tbs. | calendula petals (cut) |
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| melt clear soap base; add honey, emu oil,
and stearic acid; add the aloe vera to the sls to make a slurry, add to
soap mixture; add color; remove from heat; add fragrance, red turkey
oil, silk; stir in calendula petals which have been cut into small
pieces, mold (note 3).
notes:
1 - when adding emu oil (or shea butter), it's a good idea [before
pouring] to continually stir the soap mixture until it starts to thicken
(as with suspended ingredients) to keep the oils from rising to the
top.
2 - color (1 drop red transparent, 1 drop yellow transparent).
3 - stir mixture, keeping calendula petals evenly suspended until mixture cools and starts to thicken before pouring into mold. |
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• milk & honey oatmeal scrub | medium hard, goat's milk/honey-base, exfoliating bar with a good lather and a rich honey-vanilla scent. |
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| | design: square shaped, opaque light-toned bar with a celtic knot surface design.
color: "natural" coloring derived from honey and vanilla fragrance.
fragrance: "vanilla" fragrance (with natural scent from the honey). |
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| 2 tsp. | oatmeal |
| 1 tsp. | goat's milk |
| 5.33 oz. | m&p soap base (opaque) |
| 1 tsp. | honey |
| 75 drops | "vanilla" fragrance blend (note 1) |
| .25 tsp. | turkey red oil |
| .25 tsp. | supersilk |
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| grind oatmeal in a coffee grinder until it
is powdery, mix with milk and clay, set aside; melt soap base; add
honey; remove from heat; add fragrance, turkey red oil, silk; add a
little soap to oatmeal/milk/clay mixture, make a paste, add paste to
soap mixture; mold (note 2).
variation 1 - substitute kaolin (white) clay for the oatmeal.
variation 2 - substitute 1 tsp. kaolin clay for 1 tsp. oatmeal.
notes:
1 - combine 2 parts (50 drops) vanilla fragrance oil with 1 part (25 drops) vanilla extract.
2 - before molding, be sure to stir continually until mixture cools and
thickens to the point where the oatmeal and/or clay remain suspended. |
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• provence | this medium hard bar has a rich lather and carries the scent of a traditional type men's fragrance. |
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| | variation 1:
design: slightly translucent, plain circular bar, embedded with contrasting color soap shavings or bits.
color (note 1): the deep color evokes a
sense of masculinity while the purple hue reflects the lavender scent
which is an integral part of the base fragrance.
fragrance: "provence" fragrance. |
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| | variation 2:
design: opaque circular bar (no shavings), with celtic cross surface design.
color (note 1): dark, almost-black with purple hue.
fragrance: "provence" fragrance. |
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| 5.33 oz. | m&p base base (clear) |
| | dark purple color (note 1) |
| 87 drops | "provence" fragrance blend |
| .25 tsp. | turkey red oil |
| .25 tsp. | supersilk |
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| this is a basic m&p recipe and any desired fragrance or color can be substituted.
variation 1: prepare shavings (see below), set aside; melt soap
base; add color; remove from heat; add fragrance, turkey red oil, silk;
stir in shavings when soap starts to thicken; mold.
variation 2: melt soap base; add color; remove from heat; add fragrance, turkey red oil, silk; mold.
prepare shavings by melting 1 oz. opague soap base. leave white for
contrast. add proportional amounts of fragrance and silk. mold in any
small container that will produce a "chunk". refrigerate until set. use
knife or the large holes of a grater to produce "shavings".
prepare "bits" in same manner as for "citrus grove" bar ...see "embedding".
notes:
1 - color:
var 1 - (5 drops red transparent, 1 drop ultramarine transparent, <1 drop black oxide).
var 2 - (5 drops red transparent, 1 drop ultramarine transparent, 1 drop black oxide).
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• shea butter bar | good-lathering, emollient bar with dark rich fragrance. |
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| | design: opaque, rectangular-shaped bar with south-western "bear" surface design.
color: light tan with dark brown design elements.
fragrance: burnt vanilla fragrance. |
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| 5.33 oz. | m&p soap base (opaque) |
| 1 tsp. | (5 gm.) shea butter (note 1) |
| | tan/brown coloring |
| .25 tsp. | sodium lauryl sulfoacetate (sls) |
| 84 drops | "burnt vanilla" fragrance blend |
| .25 tsp. | turkey red oil |
| .25 tsp. | supersilk |
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| melt opaque soap base with shea butter; remove from heat; add color (note 2); remove a tsp. or so and set aside in hot water bath to keep melted; to this add contrasting coloring (note 3).
add the sls to the main batch by putting a little melted soap into the
sls powder to make a slurry, add this back to the main batch.
use dropper to fill surface design elements of mold with darker color; let cool slightly, spritz with sd alcohol.
blend turkey oil and silk to fragrance and add to the [still-melted but cooled] main batch; pour into mold.
notes:
1 - when adding shea butter (or emu oil), it's a good idea [before
pouring] to continually stir the soap mixture until it starts to thicken
(as with suspended ingredients) to keep the oils from rising to the
top.
2 - color (3 drops yellow oxide, 1 drop transparent red, <1 drop black oxide).
3 - color (3 drops yellow oxide, 2 drops red oxide, 1 drop black oxide). |
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gallery of variations
the following are variations on the previous recipes. the variations may include any combination of "the soap formulation", "the design", "the color", and/or "the fragrance". click on the image to view the details of the variations.
creamy vanilla |
smoky shea |
silver smoke |
corian |
rain chamomile |
rain tea |
jardin |
orange rhum |
orangemeal scrub |
emuloe scrub |
speckled rose |
ajan |
misty emuloe | incan gold | herbal flan |
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